Sunday 29 August 2010

The Pea Coat





In the past year or two the military influenced pea coat has gone from being something of a wardrobe staple to a must-have winter fashion item. A quick walk around the menswear department of Liberty's of London the other day revealed that almost every designer has a version in their collection for FW 2010. At the stratospheric end of the scale, price-wise there's the luxurious Burberry offering, which to borrow a military analogy is something of a 5-star general amongst pea coats, made from 80% virgin wool and 20% cashmere, and retailing at around £700. Then there are cheaper versions like the one Paul Smith is offering up, which are priced around £300. But for all their designer incarnations, I must say the sort of pea coat I've always preferred is the archetypal US Navy issue coat, made from heavy melton cloth, available from surplus clothing stores. These are amazingly inexpensive, functional coats, worn, I imagine by CPOs standing out on deck in blizzards. Wear one of these and all you need is a thick roll-neck and a chunky knit beanie to really feel snug and warm this winter. Pictures from top to bottom: Burberry, Paul Smith, US Navy Issue.

Thursday 26 August 2010

Hats off to: Alain Delon in Le Samourai




One of my favourite French films of the 60s is Jean-Pierre Melville's gangster flick, Le Samourai. It's the tale of the lone assassin, Jef Costello, who lives a monastic existence in a Paris apartment, and organizes his underworld hits with a ruthless sense of perfection. Costello's sense of perfection extended to his wardrobe too: In a dark cashmere suit, white oxford cloth button-down, trenchcoat or crombie, and grey fedora, he was the coolest, most soigné assassin ever to deliver a coup de grace. You can buy the film from Amazon, or if you fancy getting some Delon-style headwear for yourself, try a reputable hatter like Bates or Lock & Co in Jermyn Street.

Monday 23 August 2010

In praise of: CWC watches



CWC, or the Cabot Watch Company has long supplied the British Armed forces with a full range of timepieces. From the bog-standard G10 issued to British troops during the Falklands, to the RN Diver that replaced the standard issue Rolex Sub in the 1970s, and the manual Chronograph issued to RAF pilots. They're all beautifully designed military watches that don't cost an arm and a leg, being priced in the hundreds rather than thousands. I've got an automatic version of the RN diver, which is a good stand-in for a Rolex 5513 without the need to take out a huge loan. But what I'd really love next is one of the tough but elegant hand wound chronos. You can pick up a CWC watch at Silvermans, a military clothing store in the East End that also does a fantastic range of coats and flight jackets. Good used examples can also frequently be found on eBay.

Wednesday 11 August 2010

Monocle Newspaper Edition



Full marks to the Monocle crew on publishing their summer issue of "Monocle Mediterraneo". Instead of the usual magazine format, MM is printed as a newspaper specially for reading at the beach in Symi, or while you're sipping an espresso in Sorrento. Personally, I picked it up at Girona airport on the way back from a very relaxing holiday in Barcelona and Sitges. The large format photos are a triumph, especially in the fashion section, and the paper quality is excellent too, far better than run of the mill newsprint. And yes, the articles are right up to the usual high Monocle standard. In all a triumph.